A Guide to the Suits of Major Intellectuals in the Republic of China
Original ELLEMEN Ruishi
As one of the first groups in China to widely accept Western culture, intellectuals of the Republic of China were pioneers in dressing up. In the Republic of China, where long coats and jackets were still the mainstream clothing style, they were the first to change into suits, smoke pipes, and gracefully enter every social occasion.
These intellectuals with the demeanor of famous scholars should not just be cultural idols in history textbooks for the youth of the new era. On this May Fourth Youth Day, let us rediscover these "predecessors" who have left rich spiritual heritage through fashion:
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How to choose a suit style? Half linen lined suit Chinese suit factory
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Lin Yutang
Lin Yutang is quite unique. He studied at St. John's University in Shanghai during his youth, and then continued his studies at Harvard University and Leipzig University. Later, because he couldn't afford the tuition fees (his tuition fees at Harvard were all supported by Hu Shi), he took his wife to Germany to work part-time and barely make ends meet. However, he was not careless when it came to formal occasions that required a suit.
A neat dark woolen suit paired with a snow-white shirt, and a well worn tie. When he confidently communicated with others in pure English, no one could tell that the boots he was wearing were actually picked up by his wife on the old battlefield in Verdun.
But after returning to his home country, he began to advocate for Chinese style long shirts. He once criticized in his column, like a bull's horn, that men wearing suits were either "confused" or "afraid of their inner selves".
However, his fiery words may be just for the Chinese to listen to. After all, he always wears a pen and a "dog collar" to socialize happily with his foreign friends.
A collared suit paired with a white shirt and tie is the most classic, dignified, and dignified "CEO suit". Newcomers in the workplace don't necessarily have to wear it this way, but one day you will use it.
Half linen lined suit
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Shao Xunmei
Shao Xunmei, known as the "Greek handsome man," came from a prestigious family and was a high-ranking official in the Qing Dynasty from his great grandparents to his ancestors. He also married Sheng Peiyu, the granddaughter of Sheng Xuanhuai, and his wife's dowry alone amounted to 100000 silver dollars. Shao's family is wealthy, so he can do whatever it takes to not make money and only spend it.
He invested heavily in establishing publishing companies and printing factories, and even sold his property for a huge sum of $50000. He then ordered a complete set of photographic printing equipment from Germany and provided assistance to friends in need. He spent all his money without anyone returning it, earning him the nickname "Meng Chang Jun of Shanghai".
He returned to China from Cambridge, wearing a suit and a long robe, paired with British leather shoes. His hair was combed clean, and he wore jade rings on his slender white fingers. He held an Egyptian cigarette in his mouth with an ivory mouthpiece and spoke English and Mandarin at times. Handsome and charming, with a wife and concubines, openly cohabiting with American female writer Xiang Meili.
Frequently wearing long robes and dancing Western style dances, like 'Crane of the Ram'. Because of his pale skin, he had to apply some rouge before going out, claiming that he was following the style of Tang Dynasty people.
A formal suit doesn't necessarily have to be paired with slim fitting pants. Wearing loose wide leg pants like Shao Xunmei is also a fashionable way of dressing nowadays.
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Zhao Yuanren
In 1910, as the Qing Dynasty was nearing its end, Zhao Yuanren was granted a place to study in the United States. Before leaving, he put on a suit early and cut off the braids that symbolized feudal rule.
He is proficient in multiple disciplines such as mathematics, physics, philosophy, music, and linguistics. Due to his extensive knowledge, Tsinghua University was unable to select him, so they arranged for him to teach multiple interdisciplinary subjects after returning to China. When philosopher Russell visited China to give lectures, he was also sent by Tsinghua University to do translation. With tight pockets, it's impossible for him.
Zhao Yuanren exudes a Western style and pays attention to his attire. When entertaining guests at home, he also takes food from the long table and stands with utensils to eat. The engraved tissue he prepared became a fresh and fashionable item, which was taken home by the eye opening ladies for collection.
He often wears suits, and when he wears a long robe, he also needs to pair it with a pair of suit pants. Chen Danqing once depicted in oil paintings the attire of the four great mentors at Tsinghua University, including Liang Qichao, Wang Guowei, and Chen Yinke, all wearing long robes and jackets; Only he, dressed in a white suit and vest, paired with a light gray tie, and the length of his trousers just enough to cover his shiny black leather shoes, is truly fashionable.
The easy to handle flat collar is a must-have item in the wardrobe for thousands of years. Low profile and steady, not picky about people, can handle any suit occasion appropriately, and is also a safe choice for novice suits.
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What matching details should be paid attention to?(Chinese suit factory)
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Wen Yuanning
Qian Zhongshu's teacher, Wen Yuanning, holds a master's degree from the Law School of Cambridge University. At the age of 26, she returned to China and became a professor of English literature at Peking University, Tsinghua University, and Beijing Women's Normal University. She also serves as the head of the English department of the Department of Western Languages and Literature at Peking University and founded the monthly magazine "Tianxia". She has many important tasks and private activities.
At that time, the salaries of university professors and staff were very high, so intellectuals were popular for "part-time" jobs to earn extra money. Professor Wen was even "three directors and five professors", and Hu Shi mocked him as "the most fashionable in recent years".
According to the "Salary Table for University Teachers", Teacher Wen's monthly income should be at least 1500 silver yuan or more. This money can ensure that Wen Wei maintains a luxurious lifestyle, as can be seen from his attire.
He wears an English suit all year round, holds a finely crafted cane, and even learns the Cambridge style stuttering tone when speaking English, as if he needs to find the right words before speaking. Lin Yutang's daughter once laughed at him for "pretending to be more like an Englishman than an Englishman". Chinese suit factory
Wen Yuanning's shirt collar is different from the common pointed collar, but a more rounded club collar. This collar type was originally worn by students at Eton College, a prestigious high school in the UK, and later gradually became popular among gentlemen in more casual clubs.
This collar style shirt is still classic and fashionable today. The standard collar style white shirt is a bit too old-fashioned and monotonous. If you want to add a touch of floral flair to your outfit without being too flashy, you can choose a club collar white shirt to pair with a suit.
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Hu Shi
At the age of 19, Hu Shi was admitted as a Boxer official scholarship student to study in the United States. After returning to China, he was hired as a professor at Peking University. At that time, before turning 26, he could earn a monthly salary of 280 yuan, plus income from editing and translation, which was considered wealthy among literati.
But he doesn't accumulate wealth. Faced with the requests for help from Lin Yutang, Chen Zhifan, Li Ao and others, Hu Shi came to his aid. Even after Xu Zhimo's death, financially strapped Lu Xiaoman repeatedly wrote to him, hoping that he could help solve his economic problems.
Making friends with him can be considered a respectable thing, as there was a popular saying at the time, 'My friend Hu Shi'.
Hu Shi loves to wear suits and has earned the title of "Professor of Suits". When he was serving as the ambassador to the United States, he once received a tailored suit from his wife Jiang Dongxiu, with seven pairs of ivory ear picks thoughtfully packed in his pockets. His tie also had a zipper sewn on the back, with a hidden $5 inside. This was because Jiang Dongxiu was afraid her husband would be robbed, so she secretly left him money to take a taxi home. Perhaps because of this, even though he had countless confidants throughout his life, there was only one rural lady by his side. Advanced customization OEM/ODM
A suit, vest, and white shirt are the most classic ways of pairing, which can meet various formal occasions and add a sense of layering. When choosing an inner vest, attention should be paid to the width of the V-shaped area on the chest, preferably not covered by the suit, or simply wear the suit open.
In daily wear, if you want to weaken the sense of formality, you can also choose a V-neck knitted vest as a substitute like Hu Shi, which retains the sense of hierarchy and adds a touch of casual atmosphere.
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On the Application of Accessories
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Liang Qichao/Liang Sicheng
Liang Qichao not only writes excellent articles, but also understands the ways to make money. He started a newspaper and earned over ten thousand silver dollars in a year. In addition to his monthly salary as a teacher at Tsinghua University, various speech and lecture fees, royalties, and investment returns, he provided for his nine children to study abroad. He wears a mandarin jacket and a suit, and prefers fashionable Standing Collar and Wing Collar, showing some aristocratic charm that is not burdened by livelihood.
The handsome young master Liang Sicheng was no less impressive. At the age of 23, he went to the United States with Lin Huiyin to study, and at the age of 27, he received a letter of appointment from Northeastern University, offering a monthly salary of 800 silver yuan and 400 silver yuan respectively, which was about three times that of teachers of the same level at Tsinghua University at that time.
He is not tall, very thin, with a big back, wearing round glasses, a slightly hunched back, and slightly lame legs. Influenced by his father, he also loves to wear suits and ties to appear energetic. Whenever he visits Sanmei's house, Liang Sizhuang always says, "Handsome boy is here
In that famous wedding photo, Lin Huiyin is wearing her own designed Eastern wedding dress, while Liang Sicheng is wearing a Western style black tailcoat, dressed in a refined gentleman's attire. Even in his later years, he never forgot to mention in his letters to Xuxian Linzhu that he had changed his suit vest to keep warm, and even personally drew a manuscript on the side.
Compared to ties, ties are more lively and commonly seen at formal dinners. You can choose patterned styles to reduce seriousness. Although not a must-have item in the wardrobe, it is an advanced item, especially if you want to stand out at the annual meeting.
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Xu Zhimo
Xu Zhimo is no exception. After returning to China, he held three professorial positions at universities, as well as income from magazines, translations, reviews, and novels, earning a monthly income of 600 silver yuan.
He wears a stiff collared shirt and a three buttoned woolen jacket every day, holding a lit cigarette instead of a folding fan, and drinking light colored strong tea with sugar and milk. Later, he divorced Zhang Youyi because her "little feet" did not match his "suit" and began pursuing Lin Huiyin, later becoming Lu Xiaoman.
Xu Zhimo is not short of money. He works as a professor at Tsinghua University and Zhejiang University, earning a considerable amount. His father even "supports" him with 300 yuan every month. However, Lu Xiaoman's opium addiction has left Xu Zhimo penniless and he always has to ask for loans from friends. Nevertheless, he has not given up on maintaining a decent life and glamorous attire. A suit and leather shoes are essential for this romantic lover who attends different social occasions every day.
Pocket scarves should become a daily essential accessory for every man wearing a suit, and their importance should not be less than that of a tie. Like Xu Zhimo, start with a simple white linen pocket scarf, which can match with the vast majority of your suits.
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Shanghai suit customization map Half linen lined suit
After these literati took the lead in changing into suits, the rest of the Chinese public also gathered in groups to wear suits. In the 1920s in Shanghai, there were over 700 suit shops of all sizes, with British, Japanese, and Italian styles each forming their own atmosphere, for you to choose from.
Modern men and women in Shanghai have a relatively high level of dress standards. Their clothing requirements, whether standing, walking, or sitting, meet three criteria: good-looking, comfortable, and well fitting. In order to satisfy these picky customers, many master level suit makers and time-honored brands have emerged.
But the hierarchy of suit shops is strict: the best in the French Concession, followed by the Public Concession, and the most careless in the Huajie area of North Sichuan Road, with prices arranged in order from high to low. If you enter a store that does not match your status, the owner will not be too polite. Only when you are in the right family, will you remember that 'customers are gods'.
When the clothes are ready, it is customary to show off. Therefore, above the left chest pocket of the suit jacket, the wearer's Chinese and English names will be embroidered with silk thread. When the servant hangs the clothes for the guest, it is clear at a glance the guest's identity and status. In order to match a suit, the shirt must be washed and straightened, the leather uppers must be shiny and shiny, and if the socks are wrinkled, they will definitely be criticized as "too unremarkable".
Shanghai Beach celebrity Gao Zhanfei
When customizing a suit in Shanghai, you usually have two choices: either Giorgio Armani, Alfred Dunhill, or other big brands. The customization price usually starts at 20000 yuan, and you need to make an appointment with a tailor in advance because they are often not in store; Alternatively, you can also choose an independent suit customization studio, with customization prices ranging from 4000 yuan to tens of thousands of yuan, allowing you to make your own choices based on your budget.
In terms of geographical dimension, the suit customization area in Shanghai is still concentrated in the downtown area. You can visit Fuxing West Road, Huaihai Road, Xintiandi and other areas, listen to the suggestions of different tailors, and compare the fabrics.
When buying a suit, you still need to compare prices from three different sources and carefully select. We have compiled a "Shanghai Suit Customization Map", marking more than 30 suit customization stores in popular commercial areas for your reference.
Nanjing West Road/Huaihai Road area Half linen lined suit
1 square suit 2 SHARMOON EZ
3 Cerruti 1881
4 WW. Chan&Sons Tailor
5 Ermenegildo Zegna 6 Brioni
7 Gieves&Hawkes 8 Giorgio Armani
9 CJIAJIA 10 Suit&Leader Customization by Shanglide
11 Korean LABARCA Dress and Suit Customization
12 Times Tailor
13 Eleganza Uomo Elegant Men's Wear
14 Alfred Dunhill15 BOSS
16 STEED&WALL 17 PULLY
18 The Ficus
Fuxing West Road area
1 Elegant Uomo men's clothing
2 Dave's Custom Tailoring Xiong Kejia suit
3 Londoner Bespoke Club
4 suits customized for today (Half linen lined suit)
6 GIMIWEAR Men's Suit Haute Couture
7 Feozy · Little Blue House 8 Youshan
Article: Xunzi